Welcome to my Blog about my cycle to Mont Ventoux and Provence
in August 2013
I hope you enjoy reading it, and are maybe inspired to go there and conquer it yourself
You can see links to my other Blogs on the right hand side of the page
Me and Mont Ventoux
Saturday, 3 August 2013
Ventoux Cycle: I really must climb Mt. Ventoux!
14 July 2013
Le Mont Ventoux is a mountain in the South of France, but it is a quite an unusual mountain. The top of the mountain is a bare limestone landscape where nothing grows. From a distance, the mountain's peak appears to be snow-capped all year round (its snow cover actually lasts from December to April). It lies in the South of France, in the region of Provence, to the north of the famous Mediterranean French south coast. It is a picturesque region known for its lovely scenery, sunny weather, vineyards, lavender fields, pretty hilltop villages, and its famous and sometimes fearsome 'Mistral' wind.
Le Mont Ventoux is a mountain in the South of France, but it is a quite an unusual mountain. The top of the mountain is a bare limestone landscape where nothing grows. From a distance, the mountain's peak appears to be snow-capped all year round (its snow cover actually lasts from December to April). It lies in the South of France, in the region of Provence, to the north of the famous Mediterranean French south coast. It is a picturesque region known for its lovely scenery, sunny weather, vineyards, lavender fields, pretty hilltop villages, and its famous and sometimes fearsome 'Mistral' wind.
Le Mont Ventoux can be seen from all over Provence, seen here as I approached from Avignon on my first visit. Already a touch of excitement about my first climb up this famous mountain.
The 'Giant of Provence', as it is known, is one of the most historic hill climbs in the Tour de France, the annual cycle race round France that started in 1903, and reached its 100th 'edition' in 2013, and now is the most famous cycle race in the world. 9 of the Tours have had stage finishes at the top of Mt Ventoux, and 6 more have crossed over it during a stage. The average gradient is 7.43%, but it is continuously uphill for all of the 21.5 kms from Bédouin (the traditional route), with a maximum gradient in parts of 10.5%. For many keen cyclists it is one of the places to visit and conquer.
So I was sitting in my flat in Hong Kong on the 14th July 2013, watching this famous cycle race on TV, and the British rider, Chris Froome, was leading the pack up the Mt Ventoux to win the stage.....I thought 'I really must climb Mount Ventoux!' My 8 month gap between jobs ('a career break' as you might call it) was nearing its end and I had a new job to go to, but I could just about squeeze in a quick last minute 'side trip' to Provence as part of my August trip to the UK. And so I set about researching how to get there, and find out more about how to organise my cycling when I arrived.
Ventoux Cycle: London to the South of France by High Speed Train with bike
And so it was that I arranged to go to Mt Ventoux at the beginning of my UK trip in August 2013. I touched down at London Heathrow Airport from Hong Kong at 0540. My bike case appeared at the baggage claim quite quickly. It is quite a large soft shell bike case, about 1.3m long and a metre high, but it does its job to protect my moderately valuable bike. The case weighs 10 Kgs empty; and around 25 Kgs with bike and equipment, including all my other luggage packed around it, so it acts as my suitcase as well. I had booked a bigger taxi to take me and bike case the 10 miles or so from Heathrow to my ex wife's parents' house (we can call this my forward base). There I would do the re-assembly and prepare for the trip to France, leaving the case and some other stuff in my lovely in-laws garage (my in-laws are lovely, not the garage).
After re-assembly I did a quick circuit of 10 Kms through Shepperton, and back along the River Thames past Shepperton Lock, a short and pretty ride, to check all was working well.
After spending some pleasant time with my in-laws, I caught the local train from Shepperton to London with the bike, and then cycled across Central London from Waterloo to St Pancras. I am amazed how easy and pleasant it was to cycle in London, especially if you can stay on the side streets, and how short the distances are between places in the Central Area. My journey was just 5 kms. And what I also noticed was how many cyclists there were on the streets....there seem to be quite a few signposted cycle routes and bike lanes....London is definitely a cycling city!
To guarantee I got my bike on the Eurostar high speed train to France, I decided to book it in advance and pay £30 to drop it off at the 'Euro Despatch' at the back of the station. On the first leg of the journey through the Channel Tunnel to Lille in Northern France, it must travel in the luggage van. The staff were pretty helpful with providing some cardboard, as I had only brought a soft cycling bag to put the bike in. I could have left the bike fully assembled for this part, but I had a connection at Lille on to the High Speed TGV to Avignon. TGV is short for 'Train de Grande Vitesse' in French meaning 'Train of great speed', and they certainly are (300 Kms per hour!). On the TGV you can carry your bike on the train with you if it is packed in a bag and measures less than 1.2m in length. This means taking off the wheels and stowing them separately in the bag. In Lille, I had to be quick off the Eurostar train to go to the luggage van to be handed my bike before the train departed.
So there I was in Lille after a 1.5 hour journey, with less than an hour to wait for my next train, which was a double decker train with plenty of space for my bike bag in the luggage stowage at the end of my carriage. We departed from Lille for Avignon, stopping at Charles de Gaulle Airport, and after spending a few hours speeding through the french countryside at the said 300+ kilometres per hour, we pulled in to the special TGV Station at Avignon at 10:45 pm French time. Just 5 hours and 45 minutes from London, and nearly in the South of France, so easy! I carried my bike the 10 minute walk to the Adagio Access hotel just up the road from the TGV station, and using the access code I had been emailed, let myself into the hotel and found my key in the deposit box, and hey presto, I had arrived. Not really that tired either, but very excited about the next few days cycling, not knowing quite what to expect.
After re-assembly I did a quick circuit of 10 Kms through Shepperton, and back along the River Thames past Shepperton Lock, a short and pretty ride, to check all was working well.
Picture: The River Thames just upriver from Shepperton Lock
To guarantee I got my bike on the Eurostar high speed train to France, I decided to book it in advance and pay £30 to drop it off at the 'Euro Despatch' at the back of the station. On the first leg of the journey through the Channel Tunnel to Lille in Northern France, it must travel in the luggage van. The staff were pretty helpful with providing some cardboard, as I had only brought a soft cycling bag to put the bike in. I could have left the bike fully assembled for this part, but I had a connection at Lille on to the High Speed TGV to Avignon. TGV is short for 'Train de Grande Vitesse' in French meaning 'Train of great speed', and they certainly are (300 Kms per hour!). On the TGV you can carry your bike on the train with you if it is packed in a bag and measures less than 1.2m in length. This means taking off the wheels and stowing them separately in the bag. In Lille, I had to be quick off the Eurostar train to go to the luggage van to be handed my bike before the train departed.
So there I was in Lille after a 1.5 hour journey, with less than an hour to wait for my next train, which was a double decker train with plenty of space for my bike bag in the luggage stowage at the end of my carriage. We departed from Lille for Avignon, stopping at Charles de Gaulle Airport, and after spending a few hours speeding through the french countryside at the said 300+ kilometres per hour, we pulled in to the special TGV Station at Avignon at 10:45 pm French time. Just 5 hours and 45 minutes from London, and nearly in the South of France, so easy! I carried my bike the 10 minute walk to the Adagio Access hotel just up the road from the TGV station, and using the access code I had been emailed, let myself into the hotel and found my key in the deposit box, and hey presto, I had arrived. Not really that tired either, but very excited about the next few days cycling, not knowing quite what to expect.
Ventoux Cycle Day 1: 78 Kms; Avignon towards Mt Ventoux
30 JULY 13
First thing in the morning, I was on my bike heading into the centre of Avignon to get cash, a phone card and find some breakfast. Something I had not appreciated before arriving, is that Avignon is a beautiful town surrounded by ramparts and interesting narrow streets. It is great for cycling, because it is flat, lots of quiet streets, and bicycles can go the 'wrong way' down one way streets which greatly simplifies navigation. The no entry signs have a little sign below which says 'sauf bicyclettes' meaning 'except bicycles'.
I went back to the hotel to collect my backpack which I would have to carry on some days or part days when I couldn't leave it where I was staying. I had a discussion with the lady Receptionist and told her what I was planning to do. She told me that a strong 'Mistral' wind was forecast today and would last for 3 days, something that could affect my cycle up the very exposed Mont Ventoux. Slightly disappointed, I hoped this would not stop my trip up the mountain.
I was heading for the village of La Roque Alric, and the hill started. After a climb of 220m over the 8kms, through some lovely wooded areas lit up by the late afternoon sun, the road got really steep and I had arrived.
I was at the house of Christian and Christine, a Belgian couple who had bought this lovely country property and converted it into 5 bedroom annexes in the outbuildings.
First thing in the morning, I was on my bike heading into the centre of Avignon to get cash, a phone card and find some breakfast. Something I had not appreciated before arriving, is that Avignon is a beautiful town surrounded by ramparts and interesting narrow streets. It is great for cycling, because it is flat, lots of quiet streets, and bicycles can go the 'wrong way' down one way streets which greatly simplifies navigation. The no entry signs have a little sign below which says 'sauf bicyclettes' meaning 'except bicycles'.
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| The Ramparts encircle the town of Avignon |
La Place Crillon, in Avignon
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| The famous bridge at Avignon; as the song goes 'Sur le Pont d'Avignon, L'on y danse' ('On the bridge at Avignon, we dance there') |
From the hotel, I had to go back through the Centre of the town, and I got a bit lost, but eventually found my way onto the D28 towards Pernes-les-Fontaines. It was a very hot day, clear blue sky, but that wind was quite strong. Getting refreshment and water proved an bit of a problem, as I wasn't planning to sit down and have a proper lunch, but stores selling water and food were few and far between. The best bet seemed to be 'Boulangeries' (Bakers Shops), and the cafes and brasseries. No 7-11s in this part of France (yet?). I did find a nice boulangerie at Le Pontet where I bought a croissant and sandwich de saucisson, had a quick coffee, and stocked up with cold drink.
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| Stats of the day: 78Kms ; 3hrs 23 mins ; Average speed 23.05 km/hour; Climb 615m |
I turned off the D28 before Carpentras and headed north into some quiet countryside aiming to get to somewhere near Mont Ventoux. I noticed the village of Beames de Venise on the map, famous for its sweet white wine, and thought that would be a good place to stay.
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| Mont Ventoux nearly always visible in the distance |
After some lovely countryside, I arrived in the little town of Monteux, just west of Carpentas, at the 50 Kms mark, where I stopped at the Cafe in the main square. I ordered 'un café' (small black coffee), but I noticed that in several Cafés (coffee bars) it was now referred to an an 'espresso' - sacré bleu! - but I still think it tastes different, perhaps because of the chicory in the french version. Very nice barman, and locals drinking a beer with a small chaser of cognac.
Then on to a very nice village called Aubignon, where I finally ate my sandwich saucisson and two bananas as I hadn't eaten enough, and then on to Beames de Venise. The latter village is celebrating 70 years of its 'appellation' as a designated wine making village. I found the tourist office closed, and so cycled around the village looking for somewhere to stay. At one 'Chambre d'hôte' (Bed and Breakfast), which was full, a helpful gentleman referred me to the new tourist office in another part of the village. I arrived at the tourist office to find it closed, being now after 6pm, but as I waited wondering what to do, a pretty girl came out, and asked what I needed. She opened the door again and went inside to make a phone call. She then came back and said she had somewhere she highly recommended for me to stay 8 kms away, but it is a bit of a climb up a hill to the next village. I said I didn't mind climbing (plenty of hills like that in Hong Kong), and so I set off.
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| The climb to La Roque Alric |
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| The first two nights at the pretty hamlet of La Roque Alric |
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| Bed and Breakfast stop with views |
I was invited for drinks on their roof top terrace, which looked out over the mountains called 'Dentelles de Montmirail', so called because the rock formation looks like a set of teeth. A beautiful evening, and a great day's cycling despite the wind. They offered to provide some dinner for me and we dined together, and had some pleasant conversation about how they came to live in Provence, and all about the area we were in. Including a suggestion by Christian that I must include 'Gorges de La Nesque' in my ride tomorrow to Mont Ventoux.
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| Sunset behind Les Dentelles from La Roque Alric accommodation |
Ventoux Cycle Day2: 126 Kms; Up Mt Ventoux!
31 JULY 2013:
I had planned to climb Mt Ventoux on the 1st August when the Mistral wind was supposed to drop. But here I was on the 31st July, having breakfast and not a breath of wind. So I decided to have a look and climb today if possible. I set off from my overnight stop on a lovely warm day. I could see Mt Ventoux clearly in the distance, set against the beautiful blue sky.
In less than an hour, I arrived at the town of Bédoin, the traditional starting point for the climb by the southern route. In Bédoin, there seemed to be so many cyclists setting off, so that encouraged me to set off up the climb. The first 6 Kms was quite gentle until the St Estève hairpin bend. I passed a few groups of cyclists. Then it got much steeper and I ground away up the slope (to a maximum of 10.5%) for the next 9 Kms. I arrived at Chalet Reynaud (Km 35 on map below). Chalet Reynaud is a ski restaurant in winter season, and serves summer visitors as well. It was packed and so I bought drink and had a brief rest.
Then I started the final 6Km climb to the summit. I was going well and felt good, all those hills climbed in Hong Kong was helping me now. The trees were disappearing and the famous 'moonscape' was ahead. I was enjoying the excitement of arriving at this amazingly unique place. The views were incredible in such brilliant weather, and I was very excited.
I completed the last few kilometres quite easily, and it was great to round that final bend, so familiar from the Tour de France TV pictures, where the road gets noticeably steeper up to the 'finish'. In the days before the climb it seemed a bit daunting - maybe because it is so famous - but I need not have worried. The weather was perfect with none of the Mistral wind that can blow up there.
I descended back down to Chalet Reynaud and continued the rest of the day's ride to Sault (Km 70) and through the Gorges de la Nesque. It was to prove a long but excellent day's riding.
Stats of Day 2: Distance 128Kms ; Time 6 hours 23 minutes 17 seconds ; Average speed 20.1 Kilometres per hour ; Total climb vertical 2696 metres.
Back at Chalet Reynaud, I took a left turn (Kilometre 35 on the map above) south eastwards on the D164 to the town of Sault (Kilometre 70). It was a pretty descent through trees for 15 kilometres, on the smoothest road I have every experienced. Sault is another pretty hill top town, and, as I did with every other hilltop town I came across, I had of course to climb to visit it! Then I turned southwest taking the D942 on a gentle uphill climb through Monnières to the start of the Gorges de La Nesque. I stopped at a viewpoint (Km 85), and then started the descent to Villes-sur-Auzon at Km 110. The descent through the Gorges lasted for 25 kilometres and passed through tunnels and spectacular scenery. After Villes-sur-Auzon, I had a stiff climb to do just after Mormoiron, and then the final climb from Le Barroux to my overnight refuge at La Roque Alric. Very tired, but felt great after such an brilliant day's cycling of 128kms, and 2696 vertical metres climbed.
I had planned to climb Mt Ventoux on the 1st August when the Mistral wind was supposed to drop. But here I was on the 31st July, having breakfast and not a breath of wind. So I decided to have a look and climb today if possible. I set off from my overnight stop on a lovely warm day. I could see Mt Ventoux clearly in the distance, set against the beautiful blue sky.
In less than an hour, I arrived at the town of Bédoin, the traditional starting point for the climb by the southern route. In Bédoin, there seemed to be so many cyclists setting off, so that encouraged me to set off up the climb. The first 6 Kms was quite gentle until the St Estève hairpin bend. I passed a few groups of cyclists. Then it got much steeper and I ground away up the slope (to a maximum of 10.5%) for the next 9 Kms. I arrived at Chalet Reynaud (Km 35 on map below). Chalet Reynaud is a ski restaurant in winter season, and serves summer visitors as well. It was packed and so I bought drink and had a brief rest.
Then I started the final 6Km climb to the summit. I was going well and felt good, all those hills climbed in Hong Kong was helping me now. The trees were disappearing and the famous 'moonscape' was ahead. I was enjoying the excitement of arriving at this amazingly unique place. The views were incredible in such brilliant weather, and I was very excited.
I completed the last few kilometres quite easily, and it was great to round that final bend, so familiar from the Tour de France TV pictures, where the road gets noticeably steeper up to the 'finish'. In the days before the climb it seemed a bit daunting - maybe because it is so famous - but I need not have worried. The weather was perfect with none of the Mistral wind that can blow up there.
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| There are three routes up Mt Ventoux. 1) From Bédoin, the most popular - the usual Tour de France route Kms 20 to 35; 2) from Malaucène, the steepest, and 3) from Sault in the South East, the least steep, joining Route 1 at Chalet Reynaud (km 35) and avoiding the first 15 Kms of the Bédoin route |
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| Mt Ventoux is quite steep as you can see from the chart above, but not so bad if you have lived in a place like Hong Kong - but it is continuous |
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| Sight of Mt Ventoux starts a long way off |
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| On the D974 - exciting! |
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| Bédoin, the start of the classic route to Mt Ventoux |
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| Bédoin - full of cyclists and cycle shops - you can hire bikes here |
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| Lots of cyclists going the same way. This is the not-so-steep part. I overtook quite a few! Not the slowest by far. |
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| The climb proper starts after the St Estève Hairpin |
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| The climb through the trees takes you to Chalet Reynaud ; 9% slope |
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| Arriving at Chalet Reynaud - a ski restaurant in the winter, but today full of cyclists rather than skiers |
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| Chalet Reynaud : The least steep route from Sault joins from the right here |
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| Beginning the final 6 kilometres from Chalet Reynaud |
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| Coming out of the tree line at Chalet Reynaud, the summit now visible top left |
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| Plenty of cyclists out today, on all types of bikes, even a couple towing a baby trailer! |
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| It took me 2 hours 12 minutes from Bédoin to the top of Mont Ventoux, average speed 9.11 kph (6 mph); the Tour de France riders did it in a hour. |
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| Taken by a professional cameraman in the perfect spot (to make good money!) |
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| Not everyone rode all the way up! |
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| Simpson Memorial on right, more about that later |
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| Taken on the way down - I wasn't going to stop on the way up |
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| Nice steep bit to finish - Tour de France finish at the top |
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| Great View from the top - well worth it |
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| Classic pose - I made it! |
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| Now I needed the T shirt (well, bike shirt actually) |
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| Looking north |
View when approaching from the west Malaucène route
Veritable moonscape
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| The Malaucène climb. Some guys I met were climbing all three routes today, what a day to do it - must do that next year! |
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| Beginning the descent from Mont Ventoux |
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| Nice smooth descent - pure joy! |
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| Tom Simpson Memorial 1Km from the top of Mont Ventoux. The Englishman collapsed here on the 13th July 1967 whilst competing in the Tour De France. He died later in hospital in Avignon. His last words were "Put me back on my bike" ....he didn't wan't to give up. He was found with drugs (Amphetamines) in his pocket, and alcohol in his bloodstream. The drugs didn't kill him but the they had blocked out the pain as he rode - the pain that was trying to tell him to stop. |
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| The Memorial says: "A la mémoire de Tom Simpson, médaille olympique, champion du monde, ambassade de sport britannique... des amis cyclistes de Grande Bretagne" "In memory of Tom Simpson, Olympic medallist, world champion, British Sport's Ambassador, from his British cycling friends" |
Stats of Day 2: Distance 128Kms ; Time 6 hours 23 minutes 17 seconds ; Average speed 20.1 Kilometres per hour ; Total climb vertical 2696 metres.
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| Thus shows the steeper route from Bédoin to the top of Mt Ventoux, and the more gentle descent on the route to Sault and through the Gorge, mostly downhill for 60 kilometres |
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| Smoothest road ever..on the way down to Sault |
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| 25 kilometres descent from top of Mont Ventoux to Sault in very green countryside |
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| What Provence is also known for.....lavender fields |
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| Mt Ventoux still visible - beginning of Gorges de La Nesque; what's in the bag? (My Mont Ventoux Cycling shirt - that's what!) |
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| 25 kilometres down hill through tunnels and round smooth bends |
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| Un autre tunnel? |
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| The light at the end of the tunnel |
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More tunnels - added to the fun
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