Ventoux Cycle Day 1: 78 Kms; Avignon towards Mt Ventoux

30 JULY 13 

First thing in the morning, I was on my bike heading into the centre of Avignon to get cash, a phone card and find some breakfast. Something I had not appreciated before arriving, is that Avignon is a beautiful town surrounded by ramparts and interesting narrow streets.  It is great for cycling, because it is flat, lots of quiet streets, and bicycles can go the 'wrong way' down one way streets which greatly simplifies navigation. The no entry signs have a little sign below which says 'sauf bicyclettes' meaning 'except bicycles'.   

The Ramparts encircle the town of Avignon

La Place Crillon, in Avignon

The famous bridge at Avignon; as the song goes 'Sur le Pont d'Avignon, L'on y danse'
('On the bridge at Avignon, we dance there')

I went back to the hotel to collect my backpack which I would have to carry on some days or part days when I couldn't leave it where I was staying.  I had a discussion with the lady Receptionist and told her what I was planning to do.  She told me that a strong 'Mistral' wind was forecast today and would last for 3 days, something that could affect my cycle up the very exposed Mont Ventoux. Slightly disappointed, I hoped this would not stop my trip up the mountain.

From the hotel, I had to go back through the Centre of the town, and I got a bit lost, but eventually found my way onto the D28 towards Pernes-les-Fontaines.  It was a very hot day, clear blue sky, but that wind was quite strong.  Getting refreshment and water proved an bit of a problem, as I wasn't planning to sit down and have a proper lunch, but stores selling water and food were few and far between.  The best bet seemed to be 'Boulangeries' (Bakers Shops), and the cafes and brasseries.  No 7-11s in this part of France (yet?).  I did find a nice boulangerie at Le Pontet where I bought a croissant and sandwich de saucisson, had a quick coffee, and stocked up with cold drink.  

Stats of the day:  78Kms ; 3hrs 23 mins ; Average speed 23.05 km/hour; Climb 615m

I turned off the D28 before Carpentras and headed north into some quiet countryside aiming to get to somewhere near Mont Ventoux.  I noticed the village of Beames de Venise on the map, famous for its sweet white wine, and thought that would be a good place to stay.  

Mont Ventoux nearly always visible in the distance

After some lovely countryside, I arrived in the little town of Monteux, just west of Carpentas, at the 50 Kms mark, where I stopped at the Cafe in the main square.  I ordered  'un café' (small black coffee), but I noticed that in several Cafés (coffee bars) it was now referred to an an 'espresso' - sacré bleu! - but I still think it tastes different, perhaps because of the chicory in the french version.  Very nice barman, and locals drinking a beer with a small chaser of  cognac.  

Then on to a very nice village called Aubignon, where I finally ate my sandwich saucisson and two bananas as I hadn't eaten enough, and then on to Beames de Venise.  The latter village is celebrating 70 years of its 'appellation' as a designated wine making village.  I found the tourist office closed, and so cycled around the village looking for somewhere to stay.  At one 'Chambre d'hôte' (Bed and Breakfast), which was full, a helpful gentleman referred me to the new tourist office in another part of the village. I arrived at the tourist office to find it closed, being now after 6pm, but as I waited wondering what to do, a pretty girl came out, and asked what I needed.  She opened the door again and went inside to make a phone call. She then came back and said she had somewhere she highly recommended for me to stay 8 kms away, but it is a bit of a climb up a hill to the next village.  I said I didn't mind climbing (plenty of hills like that in Hong Kong), and so I set off.

The climb to La Roque Alric

I was heading for the village of La Roque Alric, and the hill started.  After a climb of 220m over the 8kms, through some lovely wooded areas lit up by the late afternoon sun, the road got really steep and I had arrived.  

The first two nights at the pretty hamlet of La Roque Alric

I was at the house of Christian and Christine, a Belgian couple who had bought this lovely country property and converted it into 5 bedroom annexes in the outbuildings. 

Bed and Breakfast stop with views

I was invited for drinks on their roof top terrace, which looked out over the mountains called 'Dentelles de Montmirail', so called because the rock formation looks like a set of teeth.  A beautiful evening, and a great day's cycling despite the wind.  They offered to provide some dinner for me and we dined together, and had some pleasant conversation about how they came to live in Provence, and all about the area we were in.  Including a suggestion by Christian that I must include 'Gorges de La Nesque' in my ride tomorrow to Mont Ventoux. 

Sunset behind Les Dentelles from La Roque Alric accommodation